Woodwork

Edge-banding, Boring, Panel cutting and other frameless/32mm cabinetmaking tools are in 32mm Tools.
Veneering Tools are in the Veneering category.

A poor mans lipping planer for relatively thin edging on straight or curved edges. I came up with this for trimming edgebanded curved corbels and it works well for that. On straight edges, some form of chip ejection would probably need to be added.

The 1/2" router base has t-nut slots for mounting the fence and threaded holes for adjustment screws (locked w/ thumb nuts). While the nuts fit the slots snugly, I added opposing screws to insure the fence doesn't move when tightening it down. Long cap screws run through the fence to mount it to the router base. While some pictures show a 3-wing laminate bit, a standard 1/2" two flute works better. The router is a Porter-Cable 7310.
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I have a couple of Bessey portable mini vises (S-10) that come in real handy every now and then. What isn't so handy is mounting them to the bench. The table mount clamps (TK-6, used for these and other Bessey vises/clamps) flop around and fall out. To keep the clamps from flopping around, I kerfed a scrap of wood and glued it to the clamps. The blocks keep the clamps parallel and perpendicular to the vise base. To keep the clamps from falling out, I tapped the round ends of the clamps and used washer head machine screws... now knurled. While the vises take up more storage space, they are much easier to mount.
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Edgebanding radiused edges usually involves a complicated setup and a lot of clamps. Having used the same size/shape for shelves and corbels, and needing an excuse to put my 305-C toggle clamp to use, I decided to invest in a clamping fixture. Its a bit cobbled together, but it works. It turned out that the mitered corners, for cross clamping, weren't needed. There is some give/flex and the pipe clamp is needed to keep the ends of the radius clamped tight.

The design is built around a steel channel that has the 305-C toggle clamp mounted on one end and a stop mounted to the other. The radius caul is fixed and the V caul can move 1-1/4" when the fixture is open. There is a shallow groove on the radiused caul that allows standard 7/8" wide banding to center on 3/4" stock. The overhangs on the banding glued to the caul can be used to spring clamp the banding to be glued. On the bottom of the fixture there is the steel channel, guides for the free sliding V caul and outer feet/guides to keep the fixture from rocking.

...A corbel caul with a reusable base - the angled stops are glued to the base, the caul screwed.
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I had a pair of toggle clamps, bought for some unknown project, sitting in a drawer for many years before I found a use for them. I was working at a furniture shop and the table guy was always bringing various pieces of scrap wood and F clamps to setup a fence for drilling holes into the edge of long table aprons. Setup was slow and the only support was the drill press table. The shop had some pieces of 1530 (1.5 x 3") T-slot extrusion and I came up with the idea of using toggle clamps to clamp it (vertically) to the drill press table, The T-slot also allowed for adjustable outrigger support. I didn't have any 1530 in the shop so the images are with 1575 and show mounting the fence to a 3/4" plywood table.

I've since found numerous other applications for toggle clamps mounted to T-slot extrusions... more
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I haven't used it much, and I am sure it can be refined, but the pictured sled works well for cutting the notches required for undermount drawer slides. It can do overlay and inset backs. The front dadoed piece is replaceable and adjustable for material thickness (prevents chip-out on overlay backs).
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I was thinking about a sliding table fence for my router table when got the idea to see if I could put a router in the opening of my table saw and use my existing sliding table/fence attachment. Obviously it couldn't be a very big router, but my Porter Cable trim router fit (w/ my PM66 arbor cranked all the way up) and works great for small incremental slotting. I did have to reroute the cord to get the routers full range of height adjustment.
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Truth be told, I originally came up with this as a leg up for a short guy installing door trim. I thought of calling it Not A Step, but that's a potentially dangerous twist because sooner or later you will have an awkward fall if you use this as a step and I don't want to be responsible.

In any event, buckets are handy toolboxes for just about any job site trade (I now use it for installs). This seat is a handy addition that is easy to grab/carry, doesn't unduly restrict access to items stored inside and allows carrying longer items, e.g. 2' levels.

It took me over 15 years to replace the original quick and dirty seat. While I was at it I added quick and dirty hammer and cordless drill holsters to the inside of the bucket.

The original was mounted with 1/4" crown staples. For the new seat I used stainless steel washer strips that fit under the lip of the bucket. The washer has dimpled holes for drilling pilot holes with a vix-bit.
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I'm glad I bought the G0459 12" Baby Drum Sander when I did, it has since gotten noticeably more expensive. Drum sanders are not very efficient at stock removal and I've tripped the circuit breaker (20 amp house circuit) more than a few times. It does do a good job of cleanup and does provide a pretty decent surface when using 150 grit. I use 220 on a random orbital to finish up. Because shop space is tight I have it on a furniture dolly which works well (not uncomfortably low). I did have two quality control issues, a stripped plastic gear in the belt drive motor and velcro that delaminated from the sandpaper. Both were taken care of by Grizzly at no cost to me... delamination is an issue with my replacement paper as well... Heat is the culprit, letting the drum cool down before changing grits prevents it... more
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My joiner was not doing well on a batch of CVG Fir I was sizing and this was the cheapest solution I could come up with. The cheap Grizzly has the guts and separate plastic housing both screwed to a piece of laminated MDF. I mounted just the guts to a piece of 1" MDF that fit in an old router hole on my saw table extension.

Its not ideal for straight line sanding, but it does an OK job. A slow and steady feed and taking a second pass (without moving the fence) are important... Since this idea came up on a forum I'll add that this is not a professional solution; it's slow, tedious and imperfect.

... It worked really well for cleaning/flushing the edges of vacuum pressed MDF torsion boxes (before and after).
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Not all air cleaners are the same. I would suggest you get one with a filter that has the largest surface area you can (afford). I also recommend a 3 stage filter. You can see what a days work does to my filter. Woodworkers Supply and Jesda Tools? (was CMT) have/had the only 3 stage filter I have seen. Mine is a JDS 2000 model 350 with a quick and dirty furnace filter for a 3rd stage. The furnace filter definitely makes a difference and is easy to clean with a vacuum. What is normally the first stage filter does get to a point where it doesn't fully clean with a vacuum and needs to be replaced. The last filter is also vacuumable and will last the longest (I haven't replaced it yet). The washable electrostatic filter might be worth considering.

May, '10: The electrostatic filter lets a lot more dust through than the stock 1st stage filter and I use it in place of the furnace filter. The stock primary filter can be replaced with a pleated 12 x 24 x 1 furnace filter if you don't mind trimming the cardboard off the long edges.

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